The grapes of Burgundy

04 Jan 2010
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The grapes of Burgundy

Before we continue our discussion of the wines of Burgundy, I must remind you that due to the format of these blogs, the information that I am presenting is a general view, and there are, and will be exceptions to most everything.

A good example of this is that although it is true that the major wine producing area in Burgundy is in the small area from below Dijon to above Lyon, 2 very important Burgundian areas lie outside this area: Chablis and Beaujolais.

Now that we have learned the important villages, let's discuss grapes.

What I am about to tell you is probably the single most important bit of information you can remember. Once you understand this, you will understand the uniqueness and the allure of Burgundy. (With several exceptions, one large, and a couple of a lesser nature. More about this later)

There are only two grapes types grown in Burgundy.

  • ALL of the white Burgundies are 100% Chardonnay.
  • ALL of the red Burgundies are 100% Pinot Noir.
If you want, you can stop reading now, for this concept is what defines Burgundy :-) There is no blending of different types of grapes.

As an example, my friend Alex Gambal produces 6 or 8 whites, and 6 or 8 reds in any given year (vintage). Each of those whites is made from Chardonnay grapes. Each of those reds is made from Pinot Noir grapes.

I know what you're wondering: if they're all made from the same grape(s), how can they be/taste different?

The answer is fundamental to both the wines and the food products of France: the answer is the concept of "terroir".

This is a concept that has gained great favor in the United States and throughout the world in recent years, but it is a concept that has been around, recognized and understood in France for a very, very long time.

Terroir literally means earth/dirt/soil, etc.. But what it defines in Burgundy is specificity of place, ie. the grapes (either chardonnay or pinot noir) grown in this place/patch of soil will produce wine that taste different from grapes grown on another (even adjacent) patch of soil.

Et c'est vrai. Formidable, n'est ce pas?

And for me, it means one more thing: terroir means history. This land has been used for the growing of grapes for hundreds of years. Many of these vineyards have been owned by the same family(s) for many generations.

With the knowledge of the villages of Burgundy, and the concept of only 2 grape types, you now know more than most people ever know about Burgundy and what makes it so special :-)



Henry Talberth

Bonjour a tous, I have, for the last six years, participated in the wine harvest in Burgundy, cooking for a good friend who owns a winery in Beaune (Maison Alex Gambal). 
It has been a most unbelievable experience, and I hope to be able to share a little of it with you. I owe my French to Camille's lessons: she has really increased my confidence in speaking when I visit France and talk with French natives.

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